Birding at Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia

Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia are well-known wintering grounds for many shorebirds in Thailand. Among these shorebirds, one species is particularly famous: the Spoon-billed Sandpiper.

Critically endangered, this location is one of the few places where it is still possible to observe it. That’s why birdwatchers from all over the world come here in search of it. But the Spoon-billed Sandpiper is not the only reason to visit this area. Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia are the best places in Thailand to observe shorebirds. Personally, it’s one of the locations with the most impressive numbers of birds I’ve ever seen.

A day trip from Bangkok is doable. However, I believe it’s worth spending at least two full days there to truly enjoy the birds in the area.

Where to find the Birds?

These two spots are about fifteen kilometers apart. I’ll share some of the best-known birding locations in the area. However, depending on the season, the best spots may change. It’s a good idea to use eBird to find the current location of the species you’re hoping to see.

Pak Thale Salt Pans

This is the most well-known location to find the Spoon-billed Sandpiper (Calidris pygmaea). Simply go to the spot marked on the map below. There’s a small open shelter with two panels displaying the birds of the area. From this shelter, just explore the nearby salt pans. Keep in mind that these are still active salt pans. Be respectful of the workers, even though they are used to birdwatchers. You can walk along the wide paths between the salt pans, but not on the narrow ones.

To the north of the shelter, you can take a small loop walk around a mangrove and along the seashore. This allows for observations of different species such as kingfishers and Golden-bellied Gerygone (Gerygone sulphurea). To the south of the shelter, near a hut with a water pump, there are also many ponds worth exploring. Numerous terns can be seen in this area.

Aside from this famous bird, it’s possible to observe a wide variety of shorebirds, including Asian Dowitcher (Limnodromus semipalmatus), Red-necked Stint (Calidris ruficollis), Great Knot (Calidris tenuirostris), Broad-billed Sandpiper (Calidris falcinellus), Tibetan Sand Plover (Anarhynchus atrifrons), Greater Sand Plover (Anarhynchus leschenaultii), Nordmann’s Greenshank (Tringa guttifer), Terek Sandpiper (Xenus cinereus), and many more.

It’s impossible to list them all, given the sheer diversity and the occasional rare species that might show up. Below is a photo of the two panels displaying the main species found at the site.

Laem Phak Bia Salt Pans

There is no marker for these salt pans on Google Maps. If you’re coming from Pak Thale, you’ll need to take a small turn to the left at the entrance to Laem Phak Bia. The birds move between the different ponds. As with Pak Thale, these are privately operated salt pans with people working there. Even though locals are used to seeing birdwatchers, it’s important to be respectful and avoid walking wherever you please.

In terms of birds, you’ll find more or less the same species as in the salt pans of Pak Thale. I won’t repeat the full list, but here are a few photos.

Environmental Research Center

This site is not as good as the previous two, but it still allows you to see different species. The Environmental Research Center is marked on Google Maps. There is a parking area available. Entry is free; you just need to fill out a form at the reception desk (name, first name, nationality). The center can be explored on foot, but it is also possible to rent bikes at the reception. There is even a shuttle that can take visitors from the reception to the boardwalks through the mangroves.

The visit begins with rather deep ponds rich in cormorants. There are also boardwalks for walking through the mangroves, but currently only the one on the far left is passable (the others are broken and not accessible).

In the ponds near the entrance, it is possible to observe Little Cormorant (Microcarbo niger), Indian Cormorant (Phalacrocorax fuscicollis), and Oriental Darter (Anhinga melanogaster). In the mangroves, many Golden-bellied Gerygone (Gerygone sulphurea) can be found. Two species of pipit, Richard’s Pipit (Anthus richardi) and Paddyfield Pipit (Anthus rufulus), are also present at this site. Regarding other animals, you may see numerous large Malayan monitor lizards.

Abandoned Building

This site is a large abandoned building surrounded by salt pans and a kind of dump. It is accessible via long dirt roads, suitable for scooters, where a few bird observations can be made along the way.

A small colony of Asian Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis) is present around the site, along the paths leading to the building. The White-cheeked Starling has not been seen at this location for several years. Depending on the water level in the surrounding salt pans, many shorebirds may also be present.

Is it Easy to See the Spoon-billed Sandpiper at Pak Thale?

Even though the Spoon-billed Sandpiper is quite frequently seen in this area, it’s not an easy bird to spot especially if you’re not used to it.

First of all, it’s a wintering bird, so it isn’t present at the site year-round. You need to visit between late October and April. It’s a rather small sandpiper, and given the sheer number of shorebirds in the area, it can be quite difficult to pick out. If you don’t have a spotting scope and are only using binoculars, you’ll need to rely a bit on luck.

There will likely be other people at the site, as it’s fairly well known. If you see a group of people gathered in one spot, chances are the Spoon-billed Sandpiper has been sighted.

To improve your chances, you can hire a local guide who knows how to find the bird. But if you’re motivated, you can try to locate it on your own. It can be a bit of a challenge but the reward is all the more satisfying!

How to Get to Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia ?

If you have your own vehicle, getting there is very straightforward. Located over two hours from Bangkok, the site is easily accessible by car. You simply need to park at the locations indicated in the sections above.

By public transport, you’ll need to go through the nearest city: Phetchaburi. From Bangkok’s main railway station (Krung Thep Aphiwat), there are frequent trains passing through Phetchaburi. Once in Phetchaburi, Pak Thale is about 15 km away, with Laem Phak Bia a bit further. If you’re feeling motivated (as I did on my first visit), you can ask your hotel to lend you bicycles. Otherwise, you’ll need to rent a scooter (between 250 and 400 baht per day). The easiest way is to arrange the rental through your accommodation.

Where to Stay in Pak Thale ?

If you plan to spend a few days in the area, the easiest option is to stay in Phetchaburi (especially if you don’t have your own transport). There are many accommodations available at various price points. These same hotels can also help you rent bikes or scooters to get to Pak Thale. I highly recommend Sida Hostel or White Monkey Guest House, both of which have friendly staff and comfortable rooms.