Birding at Khao Pra Bang Khram (Khao Nor Chu Chi or Emerald Pool)

One hour’s drive from Krabi lies Kao Nor Chu Chi, also known as Khao Pra Bang Khram or the surroundings of Emerald Pool (it seems that everyone uses a different name for this place). A former territory of Gurney’s pitta (Hydrornis gurneyi), this forest still shelters some interesting species that are worth a visit. However, it is not the easiest place for birdwatching.

The site is a biodiversity sanctuary that has unfortunately shrunk over the years due to the expansion of oil palm monocultures, which have led to the destruction of the forest. Despite this, many bird species can still be observed in the area. The site was once known for the presence of Gurney’s Pitta (Hydrornis gurneyi). Sadly, over the years, the population has been decimated, and the species has been officially declared extinct in Thailand by BirdLife. Even though some popular sites and tours still mention it, there is no real chance of seeing it here (except in the case of an exceptional comeback).

Where to find birds at Khao Pra Bang Khram ?

There are a few maps of the various trails in this area. However, just like the information about the Gurney’s Pitta, they are no longer up to date. These letter-marked trails can be found on websites such as ThaiBirding or in the kitchen of the Morakot Resort. Here is the old map of the area, which is no longer valid:

Most of the trails are no longer up to date, as vegetation has completely taken over. It is therefore very easy to get lost. In addition, since the habitat is extremely dense, it is not the best place for birding. The same applies to the trails around Emerald Pool (A, B, C, and D), which have now become paid access. You will need to pay the entrance fee for the pool to bird here, and you will encounter many tourists!
Here is an updated map of the area showing which trails are no longer truly accessible:

Main road

This refers to the road between the entrance to Emerald Pool and the mountain. It is not a paved road, but a few cars do pass through. You can bird on foot or by car, stopping frequently on the roadside if you have one. Instead of turning left to reach the Emerald Pool parking lot, continue straight ahead. There are 1.4 km between the entrance and the start of trail H. As mentioned in the introduction, birding here is not easy because the vegetation is dense. However, the main road provides better visibility.

It is impossible to list all the bird species that can be seen here, as diversity is very high. Many babblers, bulbuls, and malkohas can be found. Key targets include the Black-backed Dwarf Kingfisher (Ceyx erithaca), Orange-breasted Trogon (Harpactes oreskios), and Black-and-yellow Broadbill (Eurylaimus ochromalus). Among small passerines, you may encounter the Great Iora (Aegithina lafresnayei), Green Iora (Aegithina viridissima), Blyth’s Paradise Flycatcher (Terpsiphone affinis), and Black-naped Monarch (Hypothymis azurea). Many nocturnal raptors inhabit the area, but the Brown Wood Owl (Strix leptogrammica) is probably the species you are most likely to see during the day.

Trail H

Trail H (or rather road H) is the first junction on the right from the main road. This trail is the most popular among birders and is one of the only ones still in good condition compared to those shown on the original map.

Among the babblers that can be seen here, you may encounter the Puff-throated Babbler (Pellorneum ruficeps), Moustached Babbler (Malacopteron magnirostre), Scaly-crowned Babbler (Malacopteron cinereum), and Abbott’s Babbler (Malacocincla abbotti). Regarding bulbuls, there is a great diversity, but you may want to look for less common species such as the Puff-backed Bulbul (Euptilotus eutilotus). Other rather discreet passerines such as the Rufous-winged Philentoma (Philentoma pyrhoptera) or the Pin-tailed Parrotfinch (Erythrura prasina) may be present depending on the season. One of the stars of the site, since the Gurney’s Pitta (Hydrornis gurneyi) became extinct here, is the Green Broadbill (Calyptomena viridis). You will very likely hear its typical call, but you will need a bit more luck to see it.

Other trails

As mentioned in the introduction, many trails are no longer in good condition as they have been completely overgrown by vegetation. It is therefore very easy to get lost. Nevertheless, you can still try your luck and look for more discreet species that enjoy this type of habitat, such as babblers. I have repeated that Gurney’s Pitta (Hydrornis gurneyi) has disappeared from this area and from trail U where it used to be frequently observed long ago. However, it is not the only pitta found here, as the Malayan Banded Pitta (Hydrornis irena) and the Blue-winged Pitta (Pitta moluccensis) can also be seen depending on the season. I will repeat it one last time: avoid venturing too far so you don’t get lost.

To the summit

At the junction of the main road and trail H, you can choose to continue up to the top of the hill, about 2 km farther. The path is lined with tall trees where you may spot woodpeckers, cuckoos, or even barbets. These include the Rufous Piculet (Sasia abnormis), Banded Woodpecker (Chrysophlegma miniaceum), Buff-rumped Woodpecker (Meiglyptes grammithorax), Violet Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus), Plaintive Cuckoo (Cacomantis merulinus), and Banded Bay Cuckoo (Cacomantis sonneratii). As with most cuckoos, you are far more likely to hear them than to see them. Among the barbets, you can look for the Sooty Barbet (Caloramphus hayii) at the canopy level.

Once at the top of the plateau, you can scan the skies for swifts and swallows such as the Edible-nest Swiftlet (Aerodramus fuciphagus), Asian Palm Swift (Cypsiurus balasiensis), House Swift (Apus nipalensis), Brown-backed Needletail (Hirundapus giganteus), Grey-rumped Treeswift (Hemiprocne longipennis), or Rufous-bellied Swallow (Cecropis badia).

Around Morakot

If you’re looking to simply relax at your accommodation, Morakot Resort is also an excellent birding spot. The feeders and water stations attract species such as Orange-bellied Flowerpecker (Dicaeum trigonostigma), Olive-winged Bulbul (Pycnonotus plumosus), Streak-eared Bulbul (Pycnonotus conradi), Grey-breasted Spiderhunter (Arachnothera modesta), Spectacled Spiderhunter (Arachnothera flavigaster), Common Tailorbird (Orthotomus sutorius), and Dark-necked Tailorbird (Orthotomus atrogularis).

At night, Oriental Bay Owl (Phodilus badius) may also be found in the area.

How to get to Khao Pra Bang Khram or Emerald Pool ?

By car, there is no issue reaching the area. You can even drive along the main road all the way to the top (and even on trail H).

If you are using public transportation, the easiest option is to start from Krabi. You can either take a Grab or a taxi that will drop you at Morakot Resort, or take a bus to Khlong Tom. From Khlong Tom, you will need to take a taxi unless you want to walk the 15 km that separate you from Emerald Pool. Taxis are familiar with this destination as many tourists come here—not to watch birds (don’t worry, you’ll be on your own) but rather to swim in the pool.

Where to stay in Khao Pra Bang Khram or Emerald Pool ?

If you want to stay near Emerald Pool, there is currently only one option: Morakot Resort. Several decent bungalows are available at very affordable prices. You can contact them via WhatsApp to check availability and updated room rates.

Morakot Resort is managed by a birding guide, so you can ask for advice about local bird species or even hire her as a guide. The garden is well-suited for birdwatching, and many species can be observed there. The sanctuary is approximately 1 km from the accommodation.